Home for three days, and I am still thinking Paris, Provence, Nice, Normandy, Giverny. I joined two blog spots while searching for how to make macarons. Happy to be home, with the kids, but where are they? Erin's working at Sylvan all day today, yesterday she lunched with her gal pals. Sam works at Shaw's nearly everyday. He was employee of the month! Not surprisingly on a day off, today, he's negotiating an afternoon agenda with friends. Thank God, I had Tracey to say it's not too different at her house.
I wanted to scribe some of our musings from France: like how before each course the appropriate service comes out; a fish knife, or a soup spoon, or how when I went to the bank yesterday, to get the international banking account number to retrieve my security deposit and I was in my running shorts. I often put them on in the morning to commit myself to getting out there, but in the bank I felt so awkward. Before Paris, I would have been proud, thinking "Yes, this is evidence of my commitment!" Yesterday, I thought, "I am underdressed."
Jim was the one to cite the octave of their speech is higher. I had heard it, but not caught it as he did. You might think that the back of the mouth speech production would make it lower, but not really. Our speech seems to really come from the front of the mouth, so I guess there is a larger space which creates a lower pitch. The French seems to come from the back of the mouth more, and therefore there speech is higher. Or at least this is Jim's analysis. It's funny, because I think of Maurice Chevalier singing "Thank Heaven for little girls" and I don't think of his voice has high, or when Jim mimics a French ho, ho, ho, it seems low, but in ordinary speech, I think he is right.
When shopping, we noticed the man often carries the filled name label bag for the spouse who parades along, and if there is a baby, whether in stroller or papoose the man usually has the duty.
Jim solved the mystery of the random mosaics via an article he found while in Nice. It is an anonymous artist who inserts his space invader art just as advertisements insert themselves into our space. Apparently there are over 100 through Paris, his most common city for posting, but there are mosaics elsewhere. Hmm...
I finally made contact with the company regarding the wine we wanted to ship. It turns out they have to ship to an importer, not to Jim Fingleton. They were trying to locate one, but I think Jim may have a resource he can use. He and I even talked about how we could make a second career of traveling in France and importing the smaller vineyard labels to the US, somewhat similar to the California wine merchant he had used. The importer aspect I am sure is solvable.
My first three weeks with my mother and Erin were precious. I had imagined we would be more immersed in the culture, at markets and cooking and in classes, but as Mom says,"Nothing is on automatic in a new place." And in Paris even the cooking was far from routine. The range top was induction, the oven we didn't even tackle. It looked like a big microwave, and had too many variations on the mode of cooking to sort out. Of course the instruction manual was in French. As with any threesome newly living together, we had rough patches, but as the mom says, "You only savor the good memories."
My 4 week sojourn with Dr Cl. and Lorena was not only a learning opportunity, but a great way to try to immerse, even if Dr CL has flawless English. I think I was lucky to have created we new relationships. In fact my dear Lorena is getting married in just 2 days.
My week with Dad held the surprise accompaniment of Caleigh, with his perspective that his week was all about Caleigh's Paris tour. This helped me to get Erin into more of an immersion experience, and she ended up meeting and befriending Camille, even spending two nights at her house. Hopefully we'll see Camile again.
Finally Jim and Sam arrived and we were all reunited again. Erin with Sam and me with Jim, and all of us together. Our tour created treasured precious memories, with the kids and then with Jim, like we were on a second honeymoon, he kept saying. Sam and Erin flew their first non-parented accompanied international flight successfully. Jim and I logged a total of 2800 km on the Ford Cmax. I don't know who many wines we tasted, miles we walked or churches we visited, but more than ever before. I said a lot of prayers this year for our two dear friends. The outcome I like best is at least Jim, Erin, Mom and I all know we will go back. Sam, probably only if the military, or a girl one day, takes him there.
Farewell Paris 2011 blog. It was the experience of a lifetime.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Departure
The Depart: August 15, 2011
On arrival into Paris I had the weird feeling of being back to where I was familiar, not home but familiar and comfortable. Ah yes, back where I know, and yet I know that now this is not my home. Strange.
A French couple approached us and gave us their unused Metro tickets. It was quite a journey. The Max Mara bag was tough. We each had a roller, and then a backpack and me, a purse and a messenger bag, Jim a camera bag. Yow! It was tough.
From Ecole Militaire we walked up Rue Cler to the last hotel stay of the grand Tour de Jenn. The man at reception recommended a restaurant Chez Francois, on the lower level of the Air France building, just across the esplanade. We couldn’t get seats till 10:30 and it was 6, but 6pm on Sunday night, so not much open except cafes.
I thought given our long train ride we would walk, but fatigue set in and so we took a slow pace. We tried macarons at Lemoine, just around the corner from our Hotel. We had tried the original macarons, or so we were told, in Provence, at the market. We decided the newer combination of the cookie with the filling adds another dimension to the degustation. Then we found a random shop open selling luggage at 30% discount and located our new cheap bag to get the new purchases home.
I made a path across the Pont Alexander, and then through the Palais, down past place Concorde, and realized all of a sudden that the steel barriers that had been up then entire time we were in Paris, along the Champs Elysee and around Place Concorde, were GONE. How much more beautiful and approachable the Place and Champs is without the litter of the barriers. We then entered Tuileries, and decided to surrender to the north café near the central boat fountain for refreshment. We made it up through the Louvre courtyard, and the back, east gate. The space was so amazing to experience without throngs of people. As we crossed the bridge, Pont Neuf, the sky began to illuminate with a kaleidoscope of colors. We each tried to capture our versions all the way back.
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| Bateau Mouche |
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| Seine Sunset |
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| Saxophonist Seine-side |
We changed into dinner attire, I in my new Max Mara black ensemble with new boots! Though it was cool as the sun set, and Jim felt comfortable in his windbreaker, now, as it seems to happen often, after the sunsets, it isn’t as cold.
On arrival at the restaurant, it seemed nearly empty, but all the guests were on the subterranean terrace. We had a lovely waiter, and a good meal. Jim had steak, which I have to say is not really a French specialty, with an appetizer of smoked salmon, I had an appetizer of bouillabaisse gelee , and white fish with spinach. For dessert, which I had to have given the day, was a meringue topped with a whipped crème and strawberries. Jim had fromage. No café, no Armagnac, to hotel. We had really done it up the night before and we both were recovering much of the day.
Straight to bed and morning came early. We tried to linger but the time-clock called us up and out. I loaded our new bag which made the journey so much better. We metroed it to the station, but on trying to get the RER elevator, a man showed us the donated passes didn’t cover CDG, so he took us to buy the tickets and did the purchase for us with his card and we paid him 20 euro. We caught a 10:55 to CDG and arrived to terminal 2, which is much nicer than the one we arrived in on AA. We were flying out on Air France. We navigated the entry well, first getting the boarding pass and then doing the detax, which was very rewarding. We got a full 20% back in cash on the Max Mara purchase. Now we made it back to check the bags, did a little bag content juggle for weight and got all packed back in, even the Veille Prune bottle. Through security and into duty free, no Jean Patou Enjoy was findable.
I wanted to get Jim a Hermes belt I had seen on men in Paris, but I didn’t know how to with him there. Then he said let’s meet at the gate, you get the macarons, at La Duree, and I’m going to the wine market. At La Duree I couldn’t believe the set up. No pre-boxed assortments, just a line with a choosy pregnant woman individually selecting macarons and then asking each child and then her spouse what choices they wanted. I was so, ugh, that I only opted for a box of 8, and couldn’t even think of who else I wanted to give. I collected my reward, had to charge and then wished I had asked for more, but found my way to Hermes. I wanted to find the belt and how much it was. I worked my way back to Hermes. Quick in and to the back, where I find not only the belt, but also a shoe resembling that of which Jim has been talking. I eye the belt, but what size? Guess what, in the airport they only have limited choices. I speak with the attendant, but she is really of little help. I thank her and make it to the gate. I find Jim and tell him of the shoe, he looks, but not the right size, and at 540 euro it is pricey. Even the belt I had wanted to get him was 406 euro duty free. No Hermes for us, to the gate.
I found a short line, but it was 1st class, but Jim reminded me, that maybe we had priority entry, so we tried the line. On boarding, we found ourselves in row 14, business class. WOW!! We had earphone earpiece covers, socks, leg rest, pillow, a lap blanket, and a champagne aperitif! Jim said my face when I realized our seating was priceless. We had such a smooth ride, 3 full movies, Midnight in Paris, and two French Films, one about Justine who has a challenged relationship with her father, “The First time I saw your Heart”, and another “Tous Les Soleils” set in Alsace, a widow who finally finds love 15 years after ant at then end of the movie, and then finally Water for Elephants.
Harry is to pick us up. Jim called as we boarded. I still struggle with getting Jim a gift. He didn’t like the H Hermes belt buckle, and the shoes lacked the buckle bridle he wanted.
Monday, August 15, 2011
VJ DAY
It is the day. I am officially 50. It is 11am here, so 5 am in the States, that gives me one hour till there is no more denying it.
After a 3-hour auto route drive, we pulled in to Nice. We had decided the peage (toll) was worth the time given the scenery is less inspiring than Normandy and Brittany. The colors in the south are the pale stucco walls and the clay covered roofs and the vegetation is less lush than the northwest.
We checked into our beautiful room; we upgraded us from garden view to ocean front. The hostess escorted to the suite and cast open the leather covered door to this:
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| Hotel Negresco Room114 |
The bed was a carved wood headboard padded with a mustard velvet inset. The cherubs on the headboard had a apple with an arrow through it, and one was reaching for the other’s upper chest/breastbud. The bathroom was trimmed with gold toned bathtub and sinks and marble surfaces. Our first bidet of the trip remained unused.
The French window faced east with a fabulous view of the beachfront and coastline.
There were the huge terry bathrobes, bath sheets and thirsty bathmats. There was a beautiful wooden closet space and drawers, and space for two open suitcases!!
We organized our luggage, and then opened the French window and savored a light repast on the balcony, overlooking the promenade Anglais and the turquoisey blue Mediterranean. Parfait.
It was 3-ish so we went out to look around. We walked up the way a bit and I made some remark about being able to buy all designer clothes, and then I pointed in a window and said, see these are my colors here, and Jim said, well why don’t you try it on. I said, “Jim, we already shopped in Paris.” He said, “Just try it on.“ We went inside, Max Mara and asked for the dress in the window. The young girl introduced us to a lovely blond tanned stylish woman my age maybe older, who brought not only the dress but two belts and pumps. It is a crème felted wool sheath dress with a contrasting caramel collar. She paired with a wide off white belt and then brought out a luxurious white coat with a fur collar, but which was oh so opulent. She had an alternative caramel colored belted wool coat that Jim said would probably be more reasonable. Then I tried on at least four other dresses, and paraded out for Jim who was so kind in applauding the winners and always saying “Get It!” WOWI landed a burgundy ruffled dress, romantic, a black A-line turtle neck, sleeveless and black boots to match, Sizzle! And the last is a gorgeous flouncy brown print silk dress. We went back to put the bag at the Hotel and then returned to the non-shop side of the Promenade. We found the harbor and the WWI monument. We spied the climb to the old castle, but thought we’d save it for later. There were all kinds of folks running the promenade, and we vowed to do so tomorrow.
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Then morning sun glimmered off the Mediterranean, calling me to our vow to “run.” I had no running shoes, but the hiking shoes had arrived in the mail at Avignon, and the hiking shorts would fill in. No sports bra, but maybe we’d make it a fast walk?? No, Jim pulled be back and the running strategy was canceled. Instead we decided to play “To catch a Thief” and motor down the middle corniche to Monaco. first to FNAC to get a new photo chip, Jim has filled his entire camera memory. then our to the moyen corniche. The views are cliché breathtaking. We decided to park in Monaco. IT really is like a too perfectly beautiful, manicured, clean with a Disneyland-esque quality. We walked from the casino, which was designed by Garnier, of the Paris Opera House, and thus the casino also has an attached opera.
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| Opera |
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| Palace |
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| Guard on duty |
Sadly we ended up back in the boat basin facing one of the temporary carnival attractions with a fairly lousy, but effective panini. Back to the car, back to Nice via the moyen corniche. We had asked the concierge to make our TGV reservations for the next day and reservations at the Petit Maison for the evening, both of which he secured.
At this point I was dying to secure getting to beach and getting into the Mediterranean. Despite being at exquisite and upscale Hotel Negresco there was a 12euro charge for the beach, which provided you with a chaise lounge, mattress, towel and umbrella. Wine on the beach was a must and Jim ordered a bottle of Chablis. Delightful, when it came an hour later. The waiter had some crazy story about people leaving without paying, but an hour to get the wine to the customer? Actually at the lousy lunch place, I had half a glass of wine to go and Jim asked the waiter for one more beer and the check, but 20 minutes later, wine’s gone, no beer or check, and in the mean time he had cleared tables. It seemed so odd to me not to get the beer to the table so you could charge for it and get you tip. I made it in the water. Nice has a rocky shore with tons of tiny beach glass, In a few minutes I must have picked up 20 pieces , but all the size of small lentil. The water was just lovely, seemed clean, clear, the rocky bottom is a bit of a challenge, but once your swimming of course it doesn’t matter. I waved to Jim and he snapped my photo, I am sure more than I realized. He was quite the shutter bug this trip. The beach set up was like the postcards, chairs lined up, one to the next, so that you are lying next to and close to a stranger. Mine was a sleepy sunbather so no matter and Jim had the aisle. We were able to stay out on the beach till 8, near the last ones. Rescued some glasses for RI.
Trying to act my near age, I bathed for dinner, but then changed into the back sequined top with the stretchy black skirt. We confirmed hat we had reservations at Petit Maison, where we were told “important” people eat, like presidents. including Sarkozy. We had walked by it the day before and reviewed the menu and it seemed reasonable. Our concierge said “Yes, 9:30(then noticing it was) but you should be okay if you get there before 10. So we skedaddled over as quick as we could, and on arrival, indicated two for 9:30, Hotel Negresco. I had learned that trick from Phil. The waiter said, “Yes, Negresco, a couple of minutes.” We waited. Jim took some photos until the hostess, reminding me in someways of the CAV’s Sylvia, reprimanded him, saying “why do you take these photos, no photo.” I explained it was my birthday, she still said “why he take photo?” and was very grumpy. I was afraid whe would hold it against us, who knows. After half a hour, or more, and watching an empty 6 top sit go unfilled, Jim was ready to leave, but at this hour I was thinking, where to go? And we had only had that lousy panini. Finally they seated us. This restaurant was much larger than last night, at least 15 tables outside. It reminded me of a modern day Bal at Le Moulin de la Galette, sans dancing. One group was lined up for a big party, with the ladies holding the table for the whole time we waited to be seated. It was a birthday celebration for a 72 year old man. The roving troubadour band came in and played several numbers including Happy Birthday.
Our waiter was young, and charming, but not too rapide. They had invited us to sit while they cleared and re-set, but we waited. Jim ordered a Puligny Montrachet 2007 for dinner, I had a lovely fish soup with “petit bateau” of toasted bread, aioli and parmesan, Jim had salade Nicoise. Entrees were outstanding. Jim had lobster linguini and I had salt crusted bass with ratatouille. We finished with a small scoop of a vanilla caramel ice cream with fresh berries and Jim had an Armagnac. We left late, getting home about 1. I tried to pack, since it’s always easier the night before rather than the morning after such an extravaganza.
Jim heroically arose this am to get the car to the airport to return. I pulled myelf out of bed at 8:30 to clean up for the TGV trip.
I gathered and assembled all of my gatherings from over the last 6 weeks, new dresses, shoes, gifts, mementos. We headed downstairs. Our viey nice concierge was there. A amiable taxi man escorted us to the Gare with time to spare. We had decided on the TGV, but I was wishing we flew, or better yet, flew out of Nice home and had one more day by the water. But I keep reminding myself everything has an end, and so what a great end to my six week sojourn, two days in Nice/Monaco with Jim. Two exquisite meals. Time on the Riviera, THE Riveria, the original. Our stay in Nice was sublime. The TGV gives me time to write my blog while taking in the French countryside.
Purchases: scarves for friends, bracelet for Megan, ballet flats and purple loafers from Le Petit Parisian in Marais with Erin. The two dresses at St Honore Market, the dress at LuiJo, the poster at Giverny, the salts in Dinan, the spices in Avignon, the candies in Lyon, the lavender sachets in Beaune. AND The wine.
NICE
August 13, 2011
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| Hotel Negresco |
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| Room View |
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Pope's Palace
I will add pictures later, which I know is sub optimal for followers, but my camera connection cord went home with my mother, so all I have are google image searches. Anywho, we had another later start than desired. We skyped with Erin till MN, and then had to chill out before we could sleep. Nonetheless had a very cool stroll around Avignon today along Le Rue Teintures,
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with the old water paddle wheels used to dye the Provence cloth of yore. We found the Les Halles and bought our picnic dinner items and then hid out in the Pope's Palace during the hot hours midday.
It is now very hot outside, HOT, HOT, HOT!!! The Pope's palace was a 1+ from RS and we would both agree. It was a disappointment, but seemed to be a demanded visit, especially if you are in a catholic family.
At the market we found some spices, herbes de Provence, lavender, and all sorts of other spices to bring home. The vender then said, you must visit Gorde while you are here. "C'est magnifique!" So instead of Chateauneuf-de-Papes, when we exited the palace, we picked up our "basket" and headed to Gorde.
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| Spice market |
It is a small village 25 km outside of Avignon to the east, towards Rousillion. It is one of the "France top villes," and has the sign announcing so on entrance. Jaw dropping picturesque, as you drive in hugging the cliff side also taking in the opposite hillside laced with similar mount-hugging homes. The centre-de-ville sported throngs of tourists, mostly French. I found 2 santons to add to my collection. The shoppe owner, Christine was fabulous. She had spent a year in CT as a teenager, and willingly spoke very good english. Her santons are not Carbonel, as she thinks they are too high priced, and she has selected new artist to carry. I admired the artists, but selected a woman carrying lavender, of course, and the mayor.
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| Renoir |
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| Selecting |
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| Monet painting his garden!! |
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| Sunset for dinner in Gorge |
must call in am.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
To Avignon
We woke up late again, but enjoyed a king bed and hotel showers. Ws thought we would skip doing a big tour of Lyon and decided on the funicucalr to Notre Dame and trapse through the Roman ruins of an ampitheatre.
We also took the funicular down and found salad for lunch, picnic is good, but too much bread and chese is not. I had a hankering for a sweet and wanted to find macroons. Jim hasn’t tried them, but in the store I went into instead I found Lyon’s version of the treat, I bought one of each and then Jim can in and we bought what was called a prolaine, it had a tart sheel, a red praline topping. Good but sweet. We walked along the Rue St Jean, found a few of the covered passageways
and then walked back to the car, to hotel to get baggages, and upf, it’s 3 pm. Did manage to send a FB Happy Birthday to Megan. And bought a lottery ticket. Sunshine all day today with a lovely breeze!!
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| Notre Dame |
We also took the funicular down and found salad for lunch, picnic is good, but too much bread and chese is not. I had a hankering for a sweet and wanted to find macroons. Jim hasn’t tried them, but in the store I went into instead I found Lyon’s version of the treat, I bought one of each and then Jim can in and we bought what was called a prolaine, it had a tart sheel, a red praline topping. Good but sweet. We walked along the Rue St Jean, found a few of the covered passageways
and then walked back to the car, to hotel to get baggages, and upf, it’s 3 pm. Did manage to send a FB Happy Birthday to Megan. And bought a lottery ticket. Sunshine all day today with a lovely breeze!!
Summer has arrived!
Made it to Avignon Hotel Bristol 6:30, our earliest arrival yet. We checked in to a room with a view but then left to park the car outside the city walls in the gratuitee parking and took the shuttle back. We meandered the streets. Called Megan, had wine and cheese and wandered some more. By 9:30 we were back at the Hotel and we went to turn in the backpack, but couldn't get back out. Early tomorrow. To the market, tour the castle de Papes, and then to Chateau-neuf du Papes!
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Wine tasting/buying
August 9, 2011
Last night was chilly, and I had a tough time getting to sleep after the megaposting extravaganza. Jim also had a weird sleep, so woke up late. Bundled everything, we think, and packed up. Turbulent skies alternating with beaming sun kept us on foot rather than on bikes.
We started with a café emporter at salon du The et café, where Jim found a cool loose-leaf infuser that seemed to take the mess out of the wire basket strainer method. She tried desperately to sell us more, but I kept saying “Je bois du café.”
We then made our way to the cafe du arome, and smelled the scents usually employed to describe wine in a beautiful setting. They have classes there too, for hours to days, maybe even weeks, ecolesburgundy web site.
We then made our way to the cafe du arome, and smelled the scents usually employed to describe wine in a beautiful setting. They have classes there too, for hours to days, maybe even weeks, ecolesburgundy web site.
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spying a fabulous burgundian tile roof we discovered it belonged to Bouchard Pere et Fils and found it entry. It was 12, and they were degustationing till 12:30.
It was after noon and I tried to get a tour of the grounds first, but there was no such thing today, and so we started with the tasting. I stuck even more so to spy, swirl, sniff, sip swirl again and SPIT, maybe just a drizzle down the back but no more. We tried two whites and a few reds and ordered a case to be shipped. Our host Vincent explained he would be happy to help us ship more in the future direct to the house.
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We left there about 1, and Patriarche which RS had mentioned. His details I forgot, but he had highlighted it not Bouchard Pere & fils in the book. The gift shop open but the cav closed, so we decided to head out, but where was the car? Ouph, we had come across a lot, after we drove by the café de aromas, and swung in and focused on looking for the auto-payment booth and retracing the path to the aroma spot. Neither of us was sure. Then I remembered that retracing and it got us to the car, with a good walk on the peripherique.
Now it is 2, and Patriarche is open, should we get on our way, or give it a try. Jim mentioned it, and I thinking he wanted to, said sure, and we walked back for a tour of S5. It was outstanding. A 10 euro entry fee, but then a intro and a tasting of as much as you want. If you can, of 3 whites, including a Meursault and a bunch >5 reds, including a Pommard. Their prices were much more reasonable, than Boucard P&F, but the quality separated in time; hard to know. Anyway we bought to ship, which they will do for you, and a few to take.
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Now back to the car, yes we know where it is this time, and oh, let’s find the Hillebrand company we heard may be able to ship wine to the states for the early purchases. We drove to where we thought there might be the zone industrial, the Bricorama spot, but we were wrong, but we were able to get directions to the correct spot and arrived just too late for the department we needed but soon enough to talk to a lovely woman who set us up regardless.
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Then a nice tour for 45 minutes or so on winding roads but autoroute there on our for time. Into Lyon and to Hotel des Artistes with little effort and only a few turn-arounds. Nice big bed, hotel type shower etc. Blog in, Now off for a tour de cite au pied.
Monday, August 8, 2011
today
August 8th
Jim and I had a great day today. We awoke in this outstanding “hotel” Le Home in Beaune. For burgundy wine novices, this is the heart of burgundy, the Cotes d’Or, with Cotes de Nuits, Cotes de Beaune, Maconnais, Cote Chalonnaise, and Chablis While yesterday seemed sunny during the drive, today was tempestuous, windy cloudy mixed with the light misty rain, so we opted out of biking. We had the breakfast de rigueur, café, croissant or bread with cheese and jam, and (packaged) applesauce. I was able to speak with Hotel Tomaseaux and learn my "sac a dos" was mailed out today, hopefully to Avignon.
We then took off in our Ford C-max and Jim spied a Feuvert store looking electronic, and we tried for the convertor. It was a car supplies store but the gentleman directed us to “bricorama,” where we found our adaptor for 3.80 euro, the best buy I have made, and then squirreled away a fake terracotta plastic planter as a cooler and a tarp for a picnic undersurface. We then saw a sign to the very label we had tasted to we followed the route. The skies were still full of fury, and tried an RS site, closed, but open at Corton Andre and a separate small cav first.
We waltzed in and the usual bristlie-ness prevailed at first but melted away as we spoke. We bought a few from each and then decided to do the vin Sensations course that RS recommended.
We had a great class, after a carousel side picnic, sans tarp/cooler. We then decided vin, even if only tasted had to take a break. We found some lavender sachets (hand sewn in France,) and a beautiful Provence jacquard yellow and orange pici-nic cloth with napkins, and temporarily separated we both bought serrated couteaux for the bread and cheese. We re-located one another and went to the Hotel-Dieu museum, a charity hospital built by a financially fortunate merchant and his wife in their twilight years hoping to gain redemption??
Nonetheless, still really fabulous. Then to the recommended Athenaeum book store, where we found references for the knowledge we had gained in the wine tasting course in the afternoon and decided salad for dinner was what we needed. We found a bon marche and had a nice repast, with a petit peu du vin and took our laundry to the launderette for the evening entertainment, about all you can handle after all that wine tasting. Even if you spit the most of it, still some of the 4+5+9 tastes goes down, a tiny swallow, but some and well you can imagine. So now I am charging up. I had wifi connection but it has lapsed. Jim is reading one of our purchased books and I think I will close this page.
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| At Corton Andre |
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| Our spanish classmates at Vin Sensations |
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| Hotel-Dieu |
Nonetheless, still really fabulous. Then to the recommended Athenaeum book store, where we found references for the knowledge we had gained in the wine tasting course in the afternoon and decided salad for dinner was what we needed. We found a bon marche and had a nice repast, with a petit peu du vin and took our laundry to the launderette for the evening entertainment, about all you can handle after all that wine tasting. Even if you spit the most of it, still some of the 4+5+9 tastes goes down, a tiny swallow, but some and well you can imagine. So now I am charging up. I had wifi connection but it has lapsed. Jim is reading one of our purchased books and I think I will close this page.
Kids leave
We had to take the kids to the airport today. Upside: the departure seemed flawless.
We woke on time. A small glitch the night before was Sam and Erin ended up with a double and Sam and Erin flipped for which would get their sleeping spot choices. Erin won and wanted the floor but gave into Sam and let him have it. Nice room otherwise with a large bathroom and a very helpful woman at the desk. I was a little teary at the airport. The week went too fast.
We did have a fun but average meal at a restaurant XXL recommended by the hotelier. The waiter was outstanding, but given the food was proportioned for XXL it was a lot and the meat all ordered at medium rare ranged from Sam’s tough brown meat, to mine red and not quite warm.
I had my only “bad” interaction in France at a different restaurant she had recommended, where we entered an open door and the staff finishing their meal looked up and said “Toute a l’heure” to which I replied” Too early?” and the man in charge behind the bar said, ”Whaaat?” in a mocking tone. I apologized and reasked and they said you have to wait till 7. It was 6:50. So, Jim went to move the car and we paced the block, in the rain. We had walked by so many other cafes that were serving, on our route to secure the hotel.
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| Le Chein qui Fume wasn't open |
The day had started lovely at the Hotel Thomaseaux in Mosnes, huge room, shower, etc.
Unfortunately, we discovered the backpack I use was left probably at the last Hotel de Thomaseaux. We tried to ring them several time with out luck, no answer. So I sent an email today. Sadly the bag does have many receipts and the copy of my passport, and credit cards, and my toiletries bag and merrel walking shoes, but nothing truly valuable. Jim’s travel folder is still in Dinan, and the RS book we tried to leave in Arromanches we drove back to retrieve.
Jim and I are now on our way to Beaune, the heart of Burgundy, Puligny Montrachet, Chassagne Montrachet, Pommard, I am looking forward to great cuisine and wine tasting, separated by bike rides, hikes, etc. We auto-routed here given the tremendous delay we had yesterday on the smaller road out of Mosnes. We lost important time that diminished our trip and time at Versailles. We didn’t enter the chateaux until 3-ish. The town TI RS recommended didn’t sell tickets after morning, and I forgot the other idea to buy at a restaurant, Jim parked the car; I got in line and by the time all was done, I had waited in line for 45 minutes. We toured the chateaux with the throngs of people, that are usual, but that make it so difficult to enjoy, unfortunately the gardens closed early for a fireworks show later at 9, at was another 22 euro. Given we had already spent 25 for the place and garden and Trianon, and that we were beat, we opted out.
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| Versailles |
Midway to Beaune, maybe two thirds, we discovered we were not making it there for lunch so, I said, it’s quarter to 2, if we want lunch we should, Jim said how about Vezelay, as we approached that exit, I said good, we immediately turned off, but Vezelay was 20 km., but Nitry was 1-2. We went to Nitry were in a very small village there is a big destination hotel and restaurant with folks in period costume serving traditional food. So mid-day we had a full meal, as we imagined they do, with just a demi-bottle of wine, Irancy. Fabulous!
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| Exterieur |
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| Interieur |
Update
Saturday August 6, 2011
This morning we woke up in Mosnes. We spent the night in a beautiful hotel, Jim found on line, since all of Rick Steves places were full. It was lovely and just west of Amboise. Will have to give Rick a heads up. 80 euros for a spacious room with a king bed and a huge shower room. Room safe, hair dryer, magnified mirror meant I could finally tweeze by brows. On the other hand, my skin has cleared up a bit. The kids grabbed a buffet breakfast including eggs, rare, and Jim and I soaked in a big luscious room.
We decided to make it straight to Versailles, but use our usual non-peage stategy, but the first leg of the route was riddled with villages, so we had to opt for the autoroute to make it on time.
Friday we woke in Dinan in Brittany. I had really wanted to go to Brittany, the rugged coast, the lace hats, the stranged walled city I had visited in my twenties. Dinan in off the coast, and just charming. Picked by RS as a the city to see in Brittany. We had arrived late the night before, after visiting Mont St Michel.
On arrival, 11pm, we hunted for the hotel with the RS map,. Unknowingly, we went down a no-cars street and came headlight-to-headlight with a police car who had us reverse back to the appropriate car-allowed street. The policeman got out and came over and pointed to the sign, which was non-intuitive. I apologized and explained we were Americans trying to find our hotel. He looked back to two guys in the car and then said, "Follow us we’ll take you." We drove around and I guess they then realized that you can’t drive to this hotel. It was on a pedestrian only street, so parked us in a lot and gave us walking directions. At check in, the gal was a little bothered we were so late, but we made way to the top floor and a room with a fridge, shower and a charming décor with orangey netting draped over the head of the bed. The kids went to bed, but Jim and I decided to walk around a bit. It had been a long drive from St. Mich. We found a cute bar du vin, that was playing the Rolling Stones. We each got a glass, and then ordered a tartine, which ended up being two large pieces of toast covered with assorted topping you choose, and a small salad. We noticed it seemed like a local's hangout, and that even the restaurateurs we passed by on the way came in later for their night cap. We finally tried the Calvados, finding it quite nice, a brandy with only a slight apple flavor. I think we made it back by 1. The next morning we woke at 8:30 and had to hop right out. I had had to give a breakfast time at check in and thought 9 would be ok.
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| Tour L'Horloge |
We followed RS route, and saw the old town ramparts, an old Breton church, with only an aisle on one side of the nave. We walked by touristic shops on old streets where half-timbered houses had smaller lower floors and cantilevered extended second floors. We found an gent playing a recorded like horn, and then the hurdy-gurdy.
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We agreed it was time to go, to Loire, that St Malo, wouldn’t fit in, it was north 30 minutes and we were headed east. We had thought it was a 2 hour ride, but referred to RS and found a 4 hour drive. We drove in light rain, but it cleared as we approached the Loire valley. We headed straight for Chenonceaux, and its Chenonceau. We arrived at 5:30, 1 and 1/2 hrs to close, but actually she said we had a few hours. We were there the perfect time of day, no crowds, in rooms sometimes alone or one other couple, and when we exited to go to the gardens, it has closer to sunset, and cooler. It was a perfect visit. I even got around some construction to see Chenonceau reflecting in the river from the east façade, the image that is so often portrayed.
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We went to Amboise for dinner, but it was 9, so it was hard to really walk around, we found a table at a RS recommended spot, but it was passable. Sam did try porc rillets, and steak for dinner, Erin had duck confit, and Jim and I had fish, in a sauce that was only ok, and Salad Amboise, bibb type lettuce with dice sauteed potato and bacon and tomato, light dressing, again, only okay. We did find a nice Vouvray, and picked it since we had passed Vouvray on the way!! It is a nice refreshing light, a bit sweet wine, as RS said, a good apertif. We wandered the base of the castle a bit, and listened to a band playing across from a café, rock, and then the accordion player outside our Anne of Bretagne restaurant. But then to our Hotel which was the grand surprise.
As we drove in to the Loire valley, we saw bikers here and there, we had read in RS that biking maybe a romantic idyllic notion, but it can be tough after a hill, stiff wind, but here in the valley, it seemed it might work.
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| Honfleur harbor |
The church was as RS said, so different that the previous, accredited to their boat-building heritage rather than cathedral architects. We tried to get a cider sample, but got itchy to get on our way, to Arromanches, where we would sleep the next night, and then tour D-Day beaches following. Honfleur reminded me of Nantucket, the shingle church, and the pretty town of another era, now a tourist mecca, with colorful cafes surrounding the boat basin where what used to be boat with goods, are now pleasure craft.
Back in the car, Jim always the willing driver, we headed out along the coast towards Caen and Arromanches. We could see families along the coastline playing and beaching just as we would. When we arrived in Arromanches it was in the rain, checked in and had a mediocre dinner at a nearby restaurant.
The next day, we found a nice breakfast in the hotel, and then make our way for the D-day tour. First we did the circular theater, then we drove to Omaha Beach, where beach-goers were relaxing. We found some memorials and wended our way up to the American Cemetery which has an incredible new museum they call a visitors center, but it was fabulous, we wanted to stay on more to read all the placarding and watch the movies, but a tour in English was taking off so we jumped on. The tour was 90 minutes and our British guide was fabulous!
We decided to head back to the car, though there was more inside we wanted to see, but we also needed to move on to Pont du Hoc, the critical land mass separating the two American beach heads that the Army Rangers overtook. It was great, tremendous divots still cratering the landscape. The bombed-out, but still evident and mostly intact, german concrete strongholds. We went all the way to St Mere Eglise where the 82 and 101 airborne dropped with with the well-told stories of many exciting landing including that of John Steele, who got snagged by the church spire but was rescued by the Resistence. The town is known as the first town liberated from the Nazis. We toured their church, but by now quite famished. We could only find dinky little places, we asked at the TI who was without insightful recommendations, and then found a nice looking place down the rue and over in an Auberge John Steele. The staff inside were eating and a hostess said "15 minutes." We decided to wait in their lovely courtyard with an aperitif and a smattering of crackerettes. I thought they’d come get us, but when I went in 40 minutes later they were seating. We had our best meal here; served in such a homey genuine atmosphere, we think of it as a favorite.
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| Haystacks |
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
It's August
Jim and Sam arrived Friday, am, we did Arc de Triomphe, etc, dropped the ties to Dr Cl. They crashed and we went home. The next we did Orsay and kids did Eiffel, met Caleigh and Dad for dinner at La Closerie de Lilas.
The next The 31st we checked out of the apartment and moved to Hotel de France, fine. Did the Invalides but hen after a planned 2 hr->3->4 hr tour, we went to Notre Dame. Did the inside loop, mostly for Sam who hadn’t seen it, and looped outside. We made a tour to see the buttresses, and found the fatigue uniformed men with fambas, machine gun look a like in hand. Sam explained the difference. We tried to eat local, but too touristic. Metroed back, gratuie, as per the local, to our hotel area. I tried to touch down at a restaurant I had admired, but all canard, and not likely to Sam’s liking, so we walked farther, with Jim at the jetlag wall. To Pasco that the hotelier had rec’d.
Delicious and with a little nourishment, all of us were reborn.
We sleep one night there. Sam arose early to search for his gameworks shoppe. We had spied it on the walk in St Mich.
In the am we packed up, ate at Rue Cler, and took off for Giverny. The sun, which has been elusive is out in full force and I realize what we had was not all bad. If the sun had been this brilliant all of July, it would have been hard to tolerate the heat.
Giverny was incredible. It was hot, but I also think it would have been hard to enjoy in the rain. We saw his gardens, the house and the Japanese water garden. There were rows and rows of flowers, just like the paintings, his studio with reproductions of his work hanging as if we has there still working on them, there were chickens in cages, as if Mme Monet would be out to gather eggs. The dining room was immense, as was the kitchen. The house was furnished with his collection of Japanese prints, probably reproductions.
Giverny was incredible. It was hot, but I also think it would have been hard to enjoy in the rain. We saw his gardens, the house and the Japanese water garden. There were rows and rows of flowers, just like the paintings, his studio with reproductions of his work hanging as if we has there still working on them, there were chickens in cages, as if Mme Monet would be out to gather eggs. The dining room was immense, as was the kitchen. The house was furnished with his collection of Japanese prints, probably reproductions.
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| Studio with reproductions |
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| The water lilies |
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| Kids s'amusant |
I think Jim is using his new camera well!!.
We spent several hours then did a musee visit with the touring art collection from Williamstown, MA!! Ha! And then a back roads, non highway route to Rouen. We made appoint to stop at Les Andelys, where there was a 13th century castle built by Richard the Lionhearted. And these cliffs of chalky white limestone, like “Dover,” but on the Seine. We continued on our rural route to Rouen, which worked well and was quite scenic. We arrived, and Sam and all of us, but more so him, nearly out of gas, needed refreshment. Ate in the Vieux marche, was k-ok. Sam had a “lamb pie” but it looked way-better, Erin on the other hand tried the veal head stew and was challenged. Luckily there was plenty of cheese and pain for all. Short walk home and I am typing to “keep up. ”
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| Maison Monet |
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Dad and Caleigh's Farewell
We had a great day. Jim and Sam's first full. AM exit to Eiffel for S/E and J/J to Orsay. The weather was so sunny, which is new!!! and so what to my listening ears should sound, but Jim saying "Let's go to this boutique so you can model dresses for me to purchase for you. If we never get to Museee d'Orsay, who cares..." Two dresses later we were off to Orsay, after dropping them off at the appt., both of us grinning.
I had my Paris dresses, 50% discount (probably Italian make, D&G for sure Italian, the other don't know but same size scheme.) Walked my street, St Honore-Faubourg to Castiglione, Jean Patou closed : ( no Enjoy. Over the Seine via pedestrian bridge to d'Orsay, NO LINE. Great in, for me esp, given the shopping delay, but timed well with kids completion of Eiffel. They meet us at Orsay while we were nearing completion and given I had 2 prior visits, I was ready to share. I showed my fav's and then they did their own. We collected outside and enjoyed a walk towards to 2 Maggots, to find LuiJo on the way with cute dress. Bagged it. Jim all for in. Nice slow relax on Deux Maggots on St Germain De Pres, then stroll through through Luxembourg Gardens to Le Closerie de Lilas for dinner with T/C. Didn't get the brassierie seats, but seated fabulously. Caleigh jumped on the bill, by surprise. ugh!!
They are off tomorrow. Missed more time with Dad, but I think he and C had fun.
Out of the flat tomorrow.
Better bed.
Master BDR is nice.
I had my Paris dresses, 50% discount (probably Italian make, D&G for sure Italian, the other don't know but same size scheme.) Walked my street, St Honore-Faubourg to Castiglione, Jean Patou closed : ( no Enjoy. Over the Seine via pedestrian bridge to d'Orsay, NO LINE. Great in, for me esp, given the shopping delay, but timed well with kids completion of Eiffel. They meet us at Orsay while we were nearing completion and given I had 2 prior visits, I was ready to share. I showed my fav's and then they did their own. We collected outside and enjoyed a walk towards to 2 Maggots, to find LuiJo on the way with cute dress. Bagged it. Jim all for in. Nice slow relax on Deux Maggots on St Germain De Pres, then stroll through through Luxembourg Gardens to Le Closerie de Lilas for dinner with T/C. Didn't get the brassierie seats, but seated fabulously. Caleigh jumped on the bill, by surprise. ugh!!
They are off tomorrow. Missed more time with Dad, but I think he and C had fun.
Out of the flat tomorrow.
Better bed.
Master BDR is nice.
Jim and Sam Arrive
Hooray, Jim and Sam Arrived yesterday!!!! They managed to make it up the Arc Triomphe, to lunch at Victor Hugo Cafe.We dropped off the ties from Nantucket at Institute du Sein, to see the Eiffel Tower and on the Seine for a Bateaux Mouche . We all got a little groggy on that lullaby boat, so we metroed home from Trocadero, reconnoitered a bit. Sam crashed, and Jim and Erin and I held out till 10, and then likewise hit the hay.
Thursday night I had a farewell dinner with Lorena and Dr Cl at of all places the Grand Colbert, where Jim and I had celebrated our 13th anniversary. We started with a terrific platter of Fruits de Mer which included snails, oysters, wonderful and small, small very small shrimp like things that you pluck off the head and the tail and eat the whole thing!
I had magrette de canard and salad de artichoke and finished with creme caramel, none of which I could finish. Dr Cl was animated as usual, Lorena, happy to be finishing, and their nurse was a convivial guest.
Thursday night I had a farewell dinner with Lorena and Dr Cl at of all places the Grand Colbert, where Jim and I had celebrated our 13th anniversary. We started with a terrific platter of Fruits de Mer which included snails, oysters, wonderful and small, small very small shrimp like things that you pluck off the head and the tail and eat the whole thing!
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| Grand Colbert |
We finished at 1, Lorena and I taxi back, my first in Paris this season, if ever! She has passed her exam in Nice, and has an invitation to stay with Dr Cl, but she has some reluctance to stay in France, even with a French spouse, and is drawn back to Mexico, for a sense of pride, I think, honor, service, and family. Her mother has told her to keep this door open, that life back home is not so great, with the drug wars, etc. So it seems a tremendous challenge for her. A Bittersweet time, wedding August 20th, honeymoon, but also time to sort this out.
Anyway, I now move on to pure vacation mode, surrounded by the fam!!
To Orsay and Eiffel today, adults and teens respectively and then Quartier Latin and dinner at the closerie. I asked DrCl for the name of this place and promised not to divulge, thinking it was non-touristy, only to find it in each guide book, on trip advisor, etc!! Ha!!
I found L'atelier de Chefs, about 5 blocks from the flat the evening before Jim and Sam arrived. They had a macaron class the next day not at 74 but 57 euro!! They are closing for the season! If I had known they'd crash for sure I'd have planned for it. I mentioned it to Erin and her expression said, "Are you kidding Mom Dad and Sam will be here." I mentioned it to Jim Saturday, no comment, to jet-lagged.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
July 26-7
My father and his amie have arrived and moved in quite comfortably for all. Monday was a full OR day, and Erin was able to hook up with an OR nurse, Corinne's daughter Camille for the afternoon. They saw the newest Harry Potter film, then Erin went to their house for the evening, stayed with Camille the next day, and went to Musee Quai Branley, spent the night again and just came back today. In the mean time, I met with Lorenna at the Institute du Sein Tuesday am. This is the office of Dr Clough and his three associates, Dr Nos, Dr Sarfati and Dr Angaud. It is a beautiful space, calmimg lavender tones with a receptionist at the front waiting spaces on the first floor with internet access and then office space. It is purely surgical. They have their tumor board there, which is multidisciplinary, but the other colleagues have offices elsewhere. I then made off to Les Bains de Grenelle and had a fabulous 90 minute facial. I wanted to buy all the products of which she spoke but on "serum" I needed to buy, was 140 euro!! Ah, maybe another time. I cannot even replace it if I like it. I got out and hightailed it to Clinic B only to find that Dr Cl was late. This was the day he had asked me to assist, and did, but two were mastectomy, the first a very wide excision sentinel node. That night, last night after I got home, Dad asked me to cook the meal I had promised, but the ingredients were a little off, and so was the dish, summer pasta carbonera.
I sleep in the next day. Dad and Caleigh wanted to do Louvre, and I had Erin coming in with Camille.We tried to go to Edith Piaf musee, but despite hours posted on line it was closed. The number to call didn't answer, so we had a lazy lunch at a cafe. They both ordered poulet avec tym, and I had a terrific salade de Mont Severes. Too bad Camille had an orthodontist appt or rendezvous as they say here, and had to leave with Corinne, who arrived a voiture. They were kind to invite Erin en vacances nearby to Marseille, but I explained her brother would go nuts if he had to vacation with just his dad and me with no Erin. Nonetheless, I hope we can keep in touch. Of course we invited Camille to see us in the US whenever her parents can let her come. Erin and I meandered back through Marias; found some ballerines for 15 euro each, and some TOD look-a-likes for 59 euro (marked down from144->74->59 when I said, I like them but I'll just take the flats.) Found a DVD shop but no Alexandre, the shoppe owner and Camille had suggested FNAC, the dept store, that nobody know for what is stands, but no luck. Then we passed by a virgin megastore and Camille had suggest here as well, and we found it in French only, and only for french DVD player. We wandered in Les Halles, really a big shopping center, and metroed to FDR exit on our yellow Line 1. I really want a pedicure, my feet ache from so much walking in lousy no support j.crew ballet flats. I thought I had found it this evening at Biguine, I made an appt for 6:30, just a mere 30 minutes away. Perfect, I can take home Erin and return. We got to the apartment, I checked my email, got ready to leave, and oh, Caleigh and Dad return. I explain I must go but when I got to Biguine they said she was running late, so how about tomorrow at 10:30. Okay I thought as I had left all at home with barely a hello. In the apartment courtyard I found our landlord, who had always been pleasant, but was unusually cordial this eve and we spoke for 50 minutes, mostly in french. I received another compliment on my ability to speak the language, and I was introduced to many neighbors as they passed in and out. I returned in and all were in there evening attire. Erin at her laptop, Dad in shorts on the couch and Caleigh at her computer. We traded the passing of the days events, and then Caleigh made a lovely salad, greens, egg, salmon, avocado. Some movie talk and off to bed.
Tomorrow, Erin and I may hit a new museum house, and maybe the market. Then in the eve I have the dinner with Clough and Lorenna and then the next day the calvary arrives, Jim and Sam!!!
I had to let my camera connector go back with my mom. so no more pictures till I get home.
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| Dad, Caleigh, Erin and my feet at point Zero |
Tomorrow, Erin and I may hit a new museum house, and maybe the market. Then in the eve I have the dinner with Clough and Lorenna and then the next day the calvary arrives, Jim and Sam!!!
I had to let my camera connector go back with my mom. so no more pictures till I get home.
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