Epilogue

Home for three days, and I am still thinking Paris, Provence, Nice, Normandy, Giverny. I joined two blog spots while searching for how to make macarons. Happy to be home, with the kids, but where are they? Erin's working at Sylvan all day today, yesterday she lunched with her gal pals. Sam works at Shaw's nearly everyday. He was employee of the month! Not surprisingly on a day off, today, he's negotiating an afternoon agenda with friends. Thank God, I had Tracey to say it's not too different at her house.
I wanted to scribe some of our musings from France: like how before each course the appropriate service comes out; a fish knife, or a soup spoon, or how when I went to the bank yesterday, to get the international banking account number to retrieve my security deposit and I was in my running shorts. I often put them on in the morning to commit myself to getting out there, but in the bank I felt so awkward. Before Paris, I would have been proud, thinking "Yes, this is evidence of my commitment!" Yesterday, I thought, "I am underdressed."
Jim was the one to cite the octave of their speech is higher. I had heard it, but not caught it as he did. You might think that the back of the mouth speech production would make it lower, but not really. Our speech seems to really come from the front of the mouth, so I guess there is a larger space which creates a lower pitch. The French seems to come from the back of the mouth more, and therefore there speech is higher. Or at least this is Jim's analysis. It's funny, because I think of Maurice Chevalier singing "Thank Heaven for little girls" and I don't think of his voice has high, or when Jim mimics a French ho, ho, ho, it seems low, but in ordinary speech, I think he is right.
When shopping, we noticed the man often carries the filled name label bag for the spouse who parades along, and if there is a baby, whether in stroller or papoose the man usually has the duty.
Jim solved the mystery of the random mosaics via an article he found while in Nice. It is an anonymous artist who inserts his space invader art just as advertisements insert themselves into our space. Apparently there are over 100 through Paris, his most common city for posting, but there are mosaics elsewhere. Hmm...
I finally made contact with the company regarding the wine we wanted to ship.  It turns out they have to ship to an importer, not to Jim Fingleton. They were trying to locate one, but I think Jim may have a resource he can use. He and I even talked about how we could make a second career of traveling in France and importing the smaller vineyard labels to the US, somewhat similar to the California wine merchant he had used. The importer aspect I am sure is solvable.
My first three weeks with my mother and Erin were precious. I had imagined we would be more immersed in the culture, at markets and cooking and in classes, but as Mom says,"Nothing is on automatic in a new place." And in Paris even the cooking was far from routine. The range top was induction, the oven we didn't even tackle. It looked like a big microwave, and had too many variations on the mode of cooking to sort out. Of course the instruction manual was in French. As with any threesome newly living together, we had rough patches, but as the mom says, "You only savor the good memories."
My 4 week sojourn with Dr Cl. and Lorena was not only a learning opportunity, but a great way to try to immerse, even if Dr CL has flawless English. I think I was lucky to have created we new relationships. In fact my dear Lorena is getting married in just 2 days.
My week with Dad held the surprise accompaniment of Caleigh, with his perspective that his week was all about Caleigh's Paris tour. This helped me to get Erin into more of an immersion experience, and she ended up meeting and befriending Camille, even spending two nights at her house. Hopefully we'll see Camile again.
Finally Jim and Sam arrived and we were all reunited again. Erin with Sam and me with Jim, and all of us together. Our tour created treasured precious memories, with the kids and then with Jim, like we were on a second honeymoon, he kept saying. Sam and Erin flew their first non-parented accompanied international flight successfully. Jim and I logged a total of 2800 km on the Ford Cmax. I don't know who many wines we tasted, miles we walked or churches we visited, but more than ever before. I said a lot of prayers this year for our two dear friends. The outcome I like best is at least Jim, Erin, Mom and I all know we will go back. Sam, probably only if the military, or a girl one day, takes him there.
Farewell Paris 2011 blog. It was the experience of a lifetime.

Departure

The Depart: August 15, 2011

On arrival into Paris I had the weird feeling of being back to where I was familiar, not home but familiar and comfortable. Ah yes, back where I know, and yet I know that now this is not my home. Strange.

A French couple approached us and gave us their unused Metro tickets. It was quite a journey. The Max Mara bag was tough. We each had a roller, and then a backpack and me, a purse and a messenger bag, Jim a camera bag. Yow! It was tough.

From Ecole Militaire we walked up Rue Cler to the last hotel stay of the grand Tour de Jenn. The man at reception recommended a restaurant Chez Francois, on the lower level of the Air France building, just across the esplanade. We couldn’t get seats till 10:30 and it was 6, but 6pm on Sunday night, so not much open except cafes.

I thought given our long train ride we would walk, but fatigue set in and so we took a slow pace. We tried macarons at Lemoine, just around the corner from our Hotel. We had tried the original macarons, or so we were told, in Provence, at the market. We decided the newer combination of the cookie with the filling adds another dimension to the degustation.  Then we found a random shop open selling luggage at 30% discount and located our new cheap bag to get the new purchases home.

I made a path across the Pont Alexander, and then through the Palais, down past place Concorde, and realized all of a sudden that the steel barriers that had been up then entire time we were in Paris, along the Champs Elysee and around Place Concorde, were GONE. How much more beautiful and approachable the Place and Champs is without the litter of the barriers. We then entered Tuileries, and decided to surrender to the north café near the central boat fountain for refreshment. We made it up through the Louvre courtyard, and the back, east gate. The space was so amazing to experience without throngs of people. As we crossed the bridge, Pont Neuf, the sky began to illuminate with a kaleidoscope of colors. We each tried to capture our versions all the way back.

Bateau Mouche

Seine Sunset 

Saxophonist Seine-side

We changed into dinner attire, I in my new Max Mara black ensemble with new boots! Though it was cool as the sun set, and Jim felt comfortable in his windbreaker, now, as it seems to happen often, after the sunsets, it isn’t as cold.

On arrival at the restaurant, it seemed nearly empty, but all the guests were on the subterranean terrace. We had a lovely waiter, and a good meal.  Jim had steak, which I have to say is not really a French specialty, with an appetizer of smoked salmon, I had an appetizer of bouillabaisse gelee , and white fish with spinach. For dessert, which I had to have given the day, was a meringue topped with a whipped crème and strawberries. Jim had fromage.  No café, no Armagnac, to hotel. We had really done it up the night before and we both were recovering much of the day.

Straight to bed and morning came early. We tried to linger but the time-clock called us up and out. I loaded our new bag which made the journey so much better. We metroed it to the station, but on trying to get the RER elevator, a man showed us the donated passes didn’t cover CDG, so he took us to buy the tickets and did the purchase for us with his card and we paid him 20 euro. We caught a 10:55 to CDG and arrived to terminal 2, which is much nicer than the one we arrived in on AA. We were flying out on Air France. We navigated the entry well, first getting the boarding pass and then doing the detax, which was very rewarding. We got a full 20% back in cash on the Max Mara purchase. Now we made it back to check the bags, did a little bag content juggle for weight and got all packed back in, even the Veille Prune bottle. Through security and into duty free, no Jean Patou Enjoy was findable.

I wanted to get Jim a Hermes belt I had seen on men in Paris, but I didn’t know how to with him there. Then he said let’s meet at the gate, you get the macarons, at La Duree, and I’m going to the wine market.  At La Duree I couldn’t believe the set up. No pre-boxed assortments, just a line with a choosy pregnant woman individually selecting macarons and then asking each child and then her spouse what choices they wanted. I was so, ugh, that I only opted for a box of 8, and couldn’t even think of who else I wanted to give. I collected my reward, had to charge and then wished I had asked for more, but found my way to Hermes. I wanted to find the belt and how much it was. I worked my way back to Hermes. Quick in and to the back, where I find not only the belt, but also a shoe resembling that of which Jim has been talking.  I eye the belt, but what size? Guess what, in the airport they only have limited choices. I speak with the attendant, but she is really of little help. I thank her and make it to the gate. I find Jim and tell him of the shoe, he looks, but not the right size, and at 540 euro it is pricey. Even the belt I had wanted to get him was 406 euro duty free. No Hermes for us, to the gate.

I found a short line, but it was 1st class, but Jim reminded me, that maybe we had priority entry, so we tried the line. On boarding, we found ourselves in row 14, business class. WOW!! We had earphone earpiece covers, socks, leg rest, pillow, a lap blanket, and a champagne aperitif! Jim said my face when I realized our seating was priceless. We had such a smooth ride, 3 full movies, Midnight in Paris, and two French Films, one about Justine who has a challenged relationship with her father, “The First time I saw your Heart”, and another “Tous Les Soleils” set in Alsace, a widow who finally finds love 15 years after ant at then end of the movie, and then finally Water for Elephants.

Harry is to pick us up. Jim called as we boarded. I still struggle with getting Jim a gift. He didn’t like the H Hermes belt buckle, and the shoes lacked the buckle bridle he wanted.

VJ DAY

It is the day. I am officially 50. It is 11am here, so 5 am in the States, that gives me one hour till there is no more denying it.

After a 3-hour auto route drive, we pulled in to Nice. We had decided the peage (toll) was worth the time given the scenery is less inspiring than Normandy and Brittany.  The colors in the south are the pale stucco walls and the clay covered roofs and the vegetation is less lush than the northwest.

We checked into our beautiful room; we  upgraded us from garden view to ocean front. The hostess escorted to the suite and cast open the leather covered door to this: 

Hotel Negresco Room114

It was damask blue silk brocade walls and white curtains and bedspread.
The bed was a carved wood headboard padded with a mustard velvet inset. The cherubs on the headboard had a apple with an arrow through it, and one was reaching for the other’s upper chest/breastbud. The bathroom was trimmed with gold toned bathtub and sinks and marble surfaces. Our first bidet of the trip remained unused.
The French window faced east with a fabulous view of the beachfront and coastline.

.

 There were the huge terry bathrobes, bath sheets and thirsty bathmats. There was a beautiful wooden closet space and drawers, and space for two open suitcases!!

We organized our luggage, and then opened the French window and savored a light repast on the balcony, overlooking the promenade Anglais and the turquoisey blue Mediterranean. Parfait.

It was 3-ish so we went out to look around. We walked up the way a bit and I made some remark about being able to buy all designer clothes, and then I pointed in a window and said, see these are my colors here, and Jim said, well why don’t you try it on. I said, “Jim, we already shopped in Paris.” He said, “Just try it on.“  We went inside, Max Mara and asked for the dress in the window. The young girl introduced us to a lovely blond tanned stylish woman my age maybe older, who brought not only the dress but two belts and pumps. It is a crème felted wool sheath dress with a contrasting caramel collar. She paired with a wide off white belt and then brought out a luxurious white coat with a fur collar, but which was oh so opulent. She had an alternative caramel colored belted wool coat that Jim said would probably be more reasonable. Then I tried on at least four other dresses, and paraded out for Jim who was so kind in applauding the winners and always saying “Get It!” WOWI landed a burgundy ruffled dress, romantic, a black A-line turtle neck, sleeveless and black boots to match, Sizzle! And the last is a gorgeous flouncy brown print silk dress. We went back to put the bag at the Hotel and then returned to the non-shop side of the Promenade. We found the harbor and the WWI monument. We spied the climb to the old castle, but thought we’d save it for later. There were all kinds of folks running the promenade, and we vowed to do so tomorrow.

The concierge made reservations at Luc Sucleur , a small restaurant, just maybe ten tables run a young couple. The husband cheffed, and his wife served us our fabulous dinner. I decided on a Kir, with the requisite Aligote and Cassis, Jim a had a champagne. A pallet of appetizers preceded a veal salad pour moi and tuna tartare for Jim.  The entrées followed with the chef’s mother’s recipe for meatballs outstandingly light but flavorful. I had a delectable fish. A Pommard paired well with our choices. A cheese plate and then no room for dessert, but now realizing the end is not so far, we try to fit in the favorites memories. I had a calvados and Jim an Armagnac. We seated at 9:30 and dined till after 11 inside. We strolled home and sunk into our luxurious bed!

Then morning sun glimmered off the Mediterranean, calling me to our vow to “run.” I had no running shoes, but the hiking shoes had arrived in the mail at Avignon, and the hiking shorts would fill in. No sports bra, but maybe we’d make it a fast walk?? No, Jim pulled be back and the running strategy was canceled. Instead we decided to play “To catch a Thief” and motor down the middle corniche to Monaco. first to FNAC to get a new photo chip, Jim has filled his entire camera memory. then our to the moyen corniche. The views are cliché breathtaking. We decided to park in Monaco. IT really is like a too perfectly beautiful, manicured, clean with a Disneyland-esque quality. We walked from the casino, which was designed by Garnier, of the Paris Opera House, and thus the casino also has an attached opera.

Opera

It’s surrounded by terraces and water views, that are just over the top. The people watching likewise is replete with designer bedecked men, women and children. I saw a four year old with her iphone !! The Casino is separated from the prince’s palace by a harbor, and I wanted to walk up the cliffside to this geographically unusual rock mesa that flanked the sea. So down and then up, to really just see more of the same, except the palace, which has a fortress-like edifice on one side.

Palace

Guard on duty

We couldn’t be swayed to go inside, the weather was too delightful a l’exterieur. I had hoped to find a café for lunch, we hadn’t had petit dejeuner, but odd but true we only found the touristy cafes in the narrow rues between 3/4 story buildings, tight and claustrophobic, and odd given the overall setting of a palatial city on a cliff.  Jim had spied something he thought would work, and we awalked back to arrive just at 2 at this veautiful Cliffside eatery, with a boules course adjacent. The tables were full and mostly all lined up together as if it was two large groups together, atour group I wondered. Jim asked for a table, but “Oh this is not possible. This is a club prive!!” Oops.
Sadly we ended up back in the boat basin facing one of the temporary carnival attractions  with a fairly lousy, but effective panini. Back to the car, back to Nice via the moyen corniche.  We had asked the concierge to make our TGV reservations for the next day and reservations at the Petit Maison for the evening, both of which he secured.

At this point I was dying to secure getting to beach and getting into the Mediterranean. Despite being at exquisite and upscale Hotel Negresco there was a 12euro charge for the beach, which provided you with a chaise lounge, mattress, towel and umbrella. Wine on the beach was a must and Jim ordered a bottle of Chablis. Delightful, when it came an hour later. The waiter had some crazy story about people leaving without paying, but an hour to get the wine to the customer? Actually at the lousy lunch place, I had half a glass of wine to go and Jim asked the waiter for one more beer and the check, but 20 minutes later, wine’s gone, no beer or check, and in the mean time he had cleared tables. It seemed so odd to me not to get the beer to the table so you could charge for it and get you tip. I made it in the water. Nice has a rocky shore with tons of tiny beach glass, In a few minutes I must have picked up 20 pieces , but all the size of small lentil. The water was just lovely, seemed clean, clear, the rocky bottom is a bit of a challenge, but once your swimming of course it doesn’t matter.  I waved to Jim and he snapped my photo, I am sure more than I realized. He was quite the shutter bug this trip. The beach set up was like the postcards, chairs lined up, one to the next, so that you are lying next to and close to a stranger. Mine was a sleepy sunbather so no matter and Jim had the aisle. We were able to stay out on the beach till 8, near the last ones. Rescued some glasses for RI.

Trying to act my near age, I bathed for dinner, but then changed into the back sequined top with the stretchy black skirt. We confirmed hat we had reservations at Petit Maison, where we were told “important” people eat, like presidents. including Sarkozy. We had walked by it the day before and reviewed the menu and it seemed reasonable. Our concierge said “Yes, 9:30(then noticing it was) but you should be okay if you get there before 10. So we skedaddled over as quick as we could, and on arrival, indicated two for 9:30, Hotel Negresco. I had learned that trick from Phil. The waiter said, “Yes, Negresco, a couple of minutes.”  We waited. Jim took some photos until the hostess, reminding me in someways of  the CAV’s Sylvia, reprimanded him, saying “why do you take these photos, no photo.” I explained it was my birthday, she still said “why he take photo?” and was very grumpy. I was afraid whe would hold it against us, who knows. After half a hour, or more, and watching an empty 6 top sit go unfilled, Jim was ready to leave, but at this hour I was thinking, where to go? And we had only had that lousy panini. Finally they seated us. This restaurant was much larger than last night, at least 15 tables outside. It reminded me of a modern day Bal at Le Moulin de la Galette, sans dancing. One group was lined up for a big party, with the ladies holding the table for the whole time we waited to be seated. It was a birthday celebration for a 72 year old man. The roving troubadour band came in and played several numbers including Happy Birthday.

Our waiter was young, and charming, but not too rapide. They had invited us to sit while they cleared and re-set, but we waited.  Jim ordered a Puligny Montrachet 2007 for dinner, I had a lovely fish soup with “petit bateau” of toasted bread, aioli and parmesan, Jim had salade Nicoise. Entrees were outstanding. Jim had lobster linguini and I had salt crusted bass with ratatouille.  We finished with a small scoop of a vanilla caramel ice cream with fresh berries and Jim had an Armagnac. We left late, getting home about 1. I tried to pack, since it’s always easier the night before rather than the morning after such an extravaganza.

Jim heroically arose this am to get the car to the airport to return. I pulled myelf out of bed at 8:30 to clean up for the TGV trip.

I gathered and assembled all of my gatherings from over the last 6 weeks, new dresses, shoes, gifts, mementos. We headed downstairs. Our viey nice concierge was there. A amiable taxi man escorted us to the Gare with time to spare. We had decided on the TGV, but I was wishing we flew, or better yet, flew out of Nice home and had one more day by the water. But I keep reminding myself everything has an end, and so what a great end to my six week sojourn, two days in Nice/Monaco with Jim. Two exquisite meals. Time on the Riviera, THE Riveria, the original. Our stay in Nice was sublime. The TGV gives me time to write my blog while taking in the French countryside.

Purchases: scarves for friends, bracelet for Megan, ballet flats and purple loafers from Le Petit Parisian in Marais with Erin. The two dresses at St Honore Market, the dress at LuiJo, the poster at Giverny, the salts in Dinan, the spices in Avignon, the candies in Lyon, the lavender sachets in Beaune.  AND The wine.

NICE

August 13, 2011

OMG!! Yesterday we arrived at Hotel Negresco in Nice, France and Oh La La, what a elegant delightfully decadent inn on the waterfront

Hotel Negresco

Room View

Pope's Palace

I will add pictures later, which I know is sub optimal for followers, but my camera connection cord went home with my mother, so all I have are google image searches. Anywho, we had another later start than desired. We skyped with Erin till MN, and then had to chill out before we could sleep. Nonetheless had a very cool stroll around Avignon today along Le Rue Teintures, 

with the old water paddle wheels used to dye the Provence cloth of yore. We found the Les Halles and bought our picnic dinner items and then hid out in the Pope's Palace during the hot hours midday. 

It is now very hot outside, HOT, HOT, HOT!!!  The Pope's palace was a 1+ from RS and we would both agree. It was a disappointment, but seemed to be a demanded visit, especially if you are in a catholic family.

At the market we found some spices, herbes de Provence, lavender, and all sorts of other spices to bring home. The vender then said, you must visit Gorde while you are here. "C'est magnifique!"  So instead of Chateauneuf-de-Papes, when we exited the palace, we picked up our "basket" and headed to Gorde.

Spice market

It is a small village 25 km outside of Avignon to the east, towards Rousillion. It is one of the "France top villes," and has the sign announcing so on entrance. Jaw dropping picturesque, as you drive in hugging the cliff side also taking in the opposite hillside laced with similar mount-hugging homes. The centre-de-ville  sported throngs of tourists, mostly French. I found 2 santons to add to my collection. The shoppe owner, Christine was fabulous. She had spent a year in CT as a teenager, and willingly spoke very good english. Her santons are not Carbonel, as she thinks they are too high priced, and she has selected new artist to carry. I admired the artists, but selected a woman carrying lavender, of course, and the mayor.

Renoir

Selecting

Monet painting his garden!!

Our picnic site was cliff/roadside. We had a commanding view of the lower countryside, and were found by a family who could share a glass of wine. Our dinner, oil-packed dried tomates, baby octopus salad, fromage du Provence, and chickpea salad. Dessert opened with the macarons de Provence we found in Avignon, which were exceptional in their simplicity and lack of too much goo in between. Also had sweets from the Italian vender who had supplied most of our lunch. We savored the 2007 Meursault from Patriache, great! (can take more bottle time)

Sunset for dinner in Gorge

Found out our communications with Hillebrande have failed. Sent firm website based email this eve.
must call in am.

To Avignon

August 10, 2011: Megan’s Birthday

We woke up late again, but enjoyed a king bed and hotel showers. Ws thought we would skip doing a big tour of Lyon and decided on the funicucalr to Notre Dame and trapse through the Roman ruins of an ampitheatre.

Notre Dame

We also took the funicular down and found salad for lunch, picnic is good, but too much bread and chese is not. I had a hankering for a sweet and wanted to find macroons. Jim hasn’t tried them, but in the store I went into instead I found Lyon’s version of the treat, I bought one of each and then Jim can in and we bought what was called a prolaine, it had a tart sheel, a red praline topping. Good but sweet. We walked along the Rue St Jean, found a few of the covered passageways
and then walked back to the car, to hotel to get baggages, and upf, it’s 3 pm. Did manage to send a FB Happy Birthday to Megan. And bought a lottery ticket. Sunshine all day today with a lovely breeze!!

Summer has arrived!

Made it to Avignon Hotel Bristol 6:30, our earliest arrival yet. We checked in to a room with a view but then left to park the car outside the city walls in the gratuitee parking and took the shuttle back. We meandered the streets. Called Megan, had wine and cheese and wandered some more. By 9:30 we were back at the Hotel and we went to turn in the backpack, but couldn't get back out. Early tomorrow. To the market, tour the castle de Papes, and then to Chateau-neuf du Papes!

Wine tasting/buying

August 9, 2011

Last night was chilly, and I had a tough time getting to sleep after the megaposting extravaganza. Jim also had a weird sleep, so woke up late. Bundled everything, we think, and packed up. Turbulent skies alternating with beaming sun kept us on foot rather than on bikes. 

We started with a café emporter at salon du The et café, where Jim found a cool loose-leaf infuser that seemed to take the mess out of the wire basket strainer method. She tried desperately to sell us more, but I kept saying “Je bois du café.”
We then made our way to the cafe du arome, and smelled the scents usually employed to describe wine in a beautiful setting. They have classes there too, for hours to days, maybe even weeks, ecolesburgundy web site.

  From there we sauntered/hiked the perimeter of this incredible castle wall and moat,
spying a fabulous burgundian tile roof we discovered it belonged to Bouchard Pere et Fils and found it entry. It was 12, and they were degustationing till 12:30.
 It was after noon and I tried to get a tour of the grounds first, but there was no such thing today, and so we started with the tasting. I stuck even more so to spy, swirl, sniff, sip swirl again and SPIT, maybe just a drizzle down the back but no more. We tried two whites and a few reds and ordered a case to be shipped.  Our host Vincent explained he would be happy to help us ship more in the future direct to the house.

We left there about 1, and Patriarche which RS had mentioned. His details I forgot, but he had highlighted it not Bouchard Pere & fils in the book. The gift shop open but the cav closed, so we decided to head out, but where was the car? Ouph, we had come across a lot, after we drove by the café de aromas, and swung in and focused on looking for the auto-payment booth and retracing the path to the aroma spot. Neither of us was sure. Then I remembered that retracing and it got us to the car, with a good walk on the peripherique. 

Now it is 2, and Patriarche is open, should we get on our way, or give it a try. Jim mentioned it, and I thinking he wanted to, said sure, and we walked back for a tour of S5. It was outstanding. A 10 euro entry fee, but then a intro and a tasting of as much as you want. If you can, of 3 whites, including a Meursault and a bunch >5 reds, including a Pommard. Their prices were much more reasonable, than Boucard P&F, but the quality separated in time; hard to know. Anyway we bought to ship, which they will do for you, and a few to take.

Now back to the car, yes we know where it is this time, and oh, let’s find the Hillebrand company we heard may be able to ship wine to the states for the early purchases. We drove to where we thought there might be the zone industrial, the Bricorama spot, but we were wrong, but we were able to get directions to the correct spot and arrived just too late for the department we needed but soon enough to talk to a lovely woman who set us up regardless.

 Now off to Lyon via southern Beaune, Meursalt, Monthelie, and castle Rocquepot. We had a terrific picnic dinner on the slopes of Monthelie while the farmer tended his vines, trimming the branches, to prevent mold, according to my reading.

Then a nice tour for 45 minutes or so on winding roads but autoroute there on our for time. Into Lyon and to Hotel des Artistes with little effort and only a few turn-arounds. Nice big bed, hotel type shower etc. Blog in, Now off for a tour de cite au pied.